Steve, the kids and I visited Vicksburg, as well as the Shiloh National Military Park, in October 2010. I wrote a travel story about our adventures, but I never found a publication home for it. So today I am posting it here, in memory of Jasper, who died June 24, 1911.
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| A photo of Jasper Riggs in 1899 |
A Tale of Two Battlefields: Tracing Family Roots at Shiloh and Vicksburg
By Joy Riggs
“It should be right there, I think,” I said, pointing toward the thicket.
“Maybe we need to get out and look,” Steve said.
He put the car in park. Feeling adventurous, we made our own path through the long grass and crunchy leaves, past a cannon, and into the woods. In a hushed clearing, we spotted what had been invisible from the road, a rectangular hunk of white marble, more than 5 feet high, with raised letters near the top spelling “Illinois.”
“I think that’s it!” I exclaimed.
We stood in silence. How could bloodshed have occurred in a place of such peace? Throughout our visit to Shiloh National Military Park, we continued to struggle with this contrast, the evidence of human brutality amid breathtaking natural beauty. Even though we saw other visitors that day, we often felt like we had the entire 4,200-acre park to ourselves.
My husband and I took our children – then ages 14, 12 and 10 – to see two of the parks in October 2010. I wanted to trace the steps of my great-great-grandfather, Jasper Riggs. I also wanted our kids to learn more about the Minnesota connections to the battles. Although Minnesota soldiers are more famous for their role at Gettysburg, they also played a part in the war’s Western Theater, joining regiments from states like Illinois and Wisconsin in the effort to preserve the Union.
Shiloh and Vicksburg are quite different, but both make great day trips from Memphis. The former is known as one of the most pristine Civil War battlefields; the latter, on a bluff above the Mississippi River, was the site of a 47-day siege that ended when Confederate Lt. Gen. John Pemberton surrendered to Gen. Ulysses S. Grant on July 4, 1863.
A Visit to Shiloh
We flew into Memphis and drove 90 miles east to Corinth, Miss., which served as a critical railroad juncture for the Confederacy. The Corinth Civil War Interpretive Center, a unit of Shiloh National Military Park, had a multimedia presentation on the Battle of Shiloh, interactive displays, and an outdoor “Stream of History” sculpture that captivated our teenaged daughter.
“This is the coolest fountain ever,” Louisa said, as she watched the water flow past stacked stone blocks etched with the names of Civil War battles and events.
At the gift shop, we bought a color-coded battlefield map and kepis, or solider caps. Louisa and Sebastian chose Union blue, while Elias opted for Confederate gray – the brother-against-siblings theme seemed appropriate. Then we drove 25 miles northeast into Tennessee, following the trail of the Confederates who had surprised the Union soldiers encamped near Pittsburg Landing on the battle’s first day.
Shiloh was the first large-scale battle of the war, and it produced more than 23,000 casualties. During the 12.7-mile driving tour of the park, we stopped by notable battle sites like the Peach Orchard and ended at Shiloh National Cemetery. Wooded and hilly, with a view of the Tennessee River below, this was the kids’ favorite place in the park.
| A monument to the First Minnesota Battery Light Artillery |
| The resting place of six Wisconsin color bearers. |
| The view of the river from the restaurant parking lot. |
The 17-mile driving route at Vicksburg National Military Park takes visitors past 1,350 markers, tablets, plaques and monuments. The markers – blue for Union troops and red for Confederate – show how shockingly close the lines were in places along the hilly terrain, and why Grant gave up on taking the town by force and decided on a siege.
I’d visited Vicksburg previously, before I had discovered that my great-great grandfather had fought there. I had since learned that the names of all 36,325 Illinois soldiers who fought at Vicksburg are listed on brass tablets located inside the Illinois Memorial. Our mission was to find Jasper’s name.
We ate a picnic lunch near the park’s only surviving wartime structure, the Shirley House, where the Illinois soldiers camped. I felt guilty eating a chicken wrap and chips, knowing my great-great grandfather had survived on food like hardtack. And he was lucky, compared to the starving Confederate soldiers and Vicksburg residents who ate dogs and mules during the siege.
| A monument to Jasper’s regiment, with the Shirley House is in the background. |
| The front of the Illinois Monument. |
| Louisa makes a rubbing of her great-great-great grandfather’s name. |
When we left the park, I felt content that I’d paid tribute to my great-great-grandfather’s memory. I also had shown my kids that history is made my ordinary people who sometimes find themselves in extraordinary circumstances. Their history is our history, and it’s worth commemorating.
IF YOU GO
We flew into the Memphis International Airport and rented a car to visit the parks. Shiloh is 110 miles east of Memphis, and Vicksburg is 250 miles southwest of Memphis.
The Corinth Civil War Interpretive Center is open daily from 8:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. It has a great gift shop! Shiloh National Military Park is open daily from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. Vicksburg National Military Park is open daily, except for some holidays; check the website for details.
To learn about upcoming Civil War Sesquicentennial events, visit this special National Park Service website.

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